Budgeting for fun in the Cayman sun
By KATE P.
Suggest the Cayman Islands to heat-starved individuals and they immediately think high finance -- not affordable holiday.
After all, didn't Tom Cruise's cohorts stash millions on Grand Cayman in The Firm? Aren't some 449 banks doing business here? And what about the massive building boom sending hotels skyward and upping prices on restaurant menus overseen by the likes of superstar Michelin-starred chef Eric Ripert at the Ritz, the same Ritz that made Conde Nast Traveler's Hot List last year?
Happily, you don't need the bank account of Bill Gates to enjoy the lures of Grand Cayman (although you might run into a royal or two as we did when we shook hands with Prince Edward at a National Historic Site). Sure, you won't find the plethora of all-inclusives where you can eat for "free" round the clock. But in my mind, that's a good thing.
Rent a car and tour the island. It costs nothing to savour treats provided by Mother Nature -- like superb snorkelling just offshore in turquoise waters teeming with fish, swinging in a hammock under the Casuarina trees at Rum Point or skimming your toes through some of the best white sand in the Caribbean. All beaches are public including those on ritzy hotel properties.
Plus, many budget hotels like Comfort Suites & Resort, where we stayed last winter, offer suites with kitchen facilities where you can offset those gourmet meals. You really must sample the current foodie extravaganza that's taking over the island. Pick up a coupon book or two at the airport or tourist office and try Portofino for a scrumptious East Indian and roast beef Sunday brunch overlooking the ocean ($18.95) or Coconut Joe's for free happy hour munchies.
Instead of a pricey dinner, opt for waterside lunch at Calypso Grill (their sticky toffee pudding is famous) or an appetizer plate for two and a Stingray Beer on the seaside patio of the Cracked Conch ($21 brings spicy red and creamy white chowder, conch and lobster salad and conch fritters with three sauces).
Between food bursts, visit attractions that are free or cost peanuts, like the new Butterfly Farm, where one admission lets you visit as often as you like. Catherine Edward from Cambridge, Ont., strolled us past some of the 1,100 butterflies flitting through the charming fenced garden and taught us interesting butterfly lore (after mating, males head for the fruit "bar"; females can smell flowers up to five miles away).
At the fascinating Pedro St. James "Castle," Stacy Eden "Mickey" Hurlston, a direct descendent of the fellow whose slaves built the mahogany home in 1780, taught us history. This is where the abolition of slavery was proclaimed in 1835 from the top of the outside steps. Hurlston's mom was born in the house in 1910 and cut the ribbon at the official 1998 opening.
"She was impressed," he said.
The seaward view from the second-floor verandah is alone worth the visit.
Of course, this island isn't all heaven. At some point, you'll likely end up in Hell, in West Bay "at the end of a road paved with good intentions!"
This jagged outcropping of blackened limestone attracts busloads, so go early to take photos or post a postcard stamped "Hell" at the tiny government post office.
"My, it's hot today," remarked a local woman as she sat fanning herself outside. I couldn't resist, "I thought it was always hot in Hell."
I bet she's heard this before but she laughed anyway.
Then it was time to head back to Seven Mile Beach for a perfectly heavenly free swim.
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